12 cheap eats in Soho, all under £15
Maya Okafor
Updated 6 October 202612 spots3 min read
Three years of Soho on a budget, and these are the twelve I go back to. Noodles, tacos, one rice bowl, and a bun on the way home. Each note is the order and the hour, so you can use it on a Tuesday.
01
Ma Lan Noodle Bar
Gerrard St, W1Noodles£11 a head
Biang biang, extra chilli oil, and the off-menu cucumber if you ask. The bowl is the meal. Sides push you over £15 and you will not miss them. Six o’clock is the hour. By eight the tables turn and the chilli oil has sat.
02
Pico Taquería
Berwick St, W1Tacos£9 a head
Al pastor, three tacos, salsa on the side if anyone is cautious. Before 1pm the queue is the short one and the meat is still the first cut. After 2 the salsa bar is doing as much work as the kitchen.
03
Jen’s Steamed Buns
Newport Court, WC2Dumplings£8 a head
Pork and chive, six for two people. Vinegar goes in the saucer, not on the bun, or the dough goes slack. There is a ledge by the window and almost no seats. Eat them standing. They are worse in a bag.
04
Kova Counter
Dean St, W1Rice bowls£12 a head
The salmon don is the one to order. Lunch only. They close when the rice runs out, usually just after 2. Card is fine, but the queue moves faster if you have the money ready and the order decided before you reach the counter.
05
Flour & Rye
Poland St, W1Sandwiches£7 a head
Salt beef on rye, mustard on the side if someone in the group is particular. One sandwich splits cleanly. Ask for the pickle even if you think you do not want it. They stop slicing beef when the joint looks tired, so earlier is better than later.
06
Night Market Noodles
Gerrard St, W1Noodles£10 a head
A different bowl from Ma Lan: clear broth, hand-pulled noodles, greens on top. Come after 9, when the lunch places have shut and this one is just getting started. The chilli oil is hotter than it looks. Stir it through, do not spoon it on.
07
Oven on Greek
Greek St, W1Pizza£6 a head
Two slices, not a whole pizza. Potato and rosemary goes first, then the tomato if you still have room. They will reheat a slice. Eat it on the step. A table here is how a £6 decision becomes a £20 one.
08
Lantern Coffee
Frith St, W1Breakfast£8 a head
The only morning on this list. Scallion oil noodles before 11. After that it is pastries and the price stops making sense for what you get. Four people fit on the back bench. The front is for one, with a laptop, and you will be in their way.
09
Uncle’s Skewers
Wardour St, W1Grill£13 a head
Cumin lamb, five sticks, and the cold cucumber. Sit only if you can see the grill. The rice is how you stay under £15. Skip the bottled drinks and the number still works. Weeknights are the point. Saturday is a different, louder restaurant.
10
Soup at No. 9
Lisle St, WC2Dumplings£11 a head
Xiaolongbao, one steamer, shared. Bite the side and let the broth out onto the spoon. The top spills. Weekdays before 7. The weekend queue spends the hour you meant to spend eating. Ginger in the vinegar, not the other way round.
11
The Late Bun
Walker’s Court, W1Bakery£4 a head
The sausage roll at 4pm, reduced, still warm. This is not dinner. It is the decision you make on the way to dinner, and every good Soho evening has one. If the roll has gone, the cheese straw is the honest second. Do not sit in for a coffee. That is a different bill.
12
Basil Room
Old Compton St, W1Thai£14 a head
Pad kra pao, minced pork, fried egg, over rice. Ask for Thai spicy only if you mean it. The medium is already a conversation. One plate is enough. The set with a drink crosses £15, so drink water and spend the difference on a second plate to share.